The Advice Every British Founder Gets — And Why It Is Wrong

There is a piece of advice every British founder receives the moment they start thinking about America.

Master your home market first. Prove the model. Build a war chest. Get the unit economics right in the UK before you even think about crossing the Atlantic. Hire a US team, open a US warehouse, find a US distribution partner — then go.

It sounds responsible. It sounds strategic. It even sounds humble — the kind of grounded thinking that separates serious operators from the ones who overstretched and burned.

But when you look at the six biggest British DTC exits of the last decade with fresh eyes, something uncomfortable becomes apparent. Not one of them followed that playbook.

Charlotte Tilbury went to America in year one. Gymshark went in year one. Huel went in year two — and hit $10m in US revenue before they had a single American employee or a single US retail partner. Wild went international within six months of launch. Suri went on day one, running simultaneous paid ads in the US, UK and Germany from the moment the brand launched. The Nue Co never came to the UK first at all — British founder, New York launch.

Six brands. Six of the most significant British DTC outcomes of the past decade. Zero of them waited.

The conventional playbook is not just wrong. For the type of brand this newsletter is written for — high AOV, consumable, digital-native, subscription-eligible — it may be the single belief most likely to cost you the window.

This issue breaks down how each of them did it, what the three structural factors were that made early US entry possible, and what you can do with that this week.

The Six Brands

Brand

Founded

US Entry

How

Charlotte Tilbury

Sept 2013

Year 1 (2014)

Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom

Gymshark

2012

Year 1 (DTC online)

Paid social, zero US employees

Huel

2015

Year 2 (June 2017)

DTC shipping, no retail

Wild

2020

6 months

Localised Facebook ads from UK Shopify

Suri

May 2022

Day 1

Simultaneous paid ads in US, UK and Germany

The Nue Co

2017

Day 1

British founder, launched in New York first

The Nue Co is the outlier in one specific sense: Jules Miller is British but launched in New York first, treating the US as her primary market from the start. The others all built in the UK initially, then moved fast. But the direction of travel is the same — and the speed is accelerating. What took Huel two years took Suri one day.

The Brands

Charlotte Tilbury — The Celebrity Relationship Head Start

Charlotte Tilbury launched her eponymous brand in September 2013 at Selfridges London. By 2014 — year one — it was available in Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom in the United States.

Charlotte Tilbury Nordstrom

This was not a cold entry. Tilbury had spent over 20 years as a working makeup artist at the highest level — Vogue covers, fashion week shows, campaigns for Prada, Armani, and Tom Ford. She had existing relationships with the US beauty press, US retailers, and US celebrities before she had a single product on shelf.

Her route was retail-led rather than DTC-first, which distinguishes her from the others in this group. But the speed was identical — she did not sit in the UK waiting for domestic proof before going to America.

The result: Puig acquired a majority stake in Charlotte Tilbury in 2020 for an estimated £1.3bn.

The lesson is not "get celebrity relationships first." The lesson is that she used the advantage she had — a 20-year network — and moved immediately. Most founders wait for the perfect conditions. She moved with the conditions she had.

Gymshark — $200m Before the First US Employee

Gymshark was founded in 2012 by Ben Francis, a 19-year-old student making apparel in his parents' garage in Bromsgrove.

By the time Gymshark held its first US pop-up in New York's SoHo neighbourhood in 2017, it already had a line stretching from Mercer Street down to Canal. That was five years into the business.

But the US revenue had been building from year one — DTC, online, through paid social and influencer marketing on YouTube and Instagram, without a single US-based employee.

Gymshark reached $200m in annual US revenue before hiring its first American employee. The US is now approximately 50% of total revenue, making it larger than the UK home market.

The founder himself summarised the lesson clearly: "We tried to act like a big business too soon, when we could already get hundreds of millions in sales without a single American employee."

Gymshark did not build the US. The US found Gymshark — because the product was digital-native, the community was global from the start, and the economics of DTC apparel meant a customer in Ohio cost the same to acquire as a customer in Oxfordshire.

Huel — The Most Impressive Entry of All

Huel is the standout in this group and it is not close.

Every other brand in this list was selling clothes, cosmetics, supplements, or personal care products — categories with minimal regulatory complexity and straightforward international shipping. Huel was selling food. Nutritionally complete, meal-replacing, daily-consumption food.

To enter the United States with a food product from the UK, you face FDA compliance requirements, state-level labelling variations, customs classification complexity, and a fundamental consumer trust barrier — people are significantly more cautious about what they eat than what they wear or put on their skin.

Huel cleared all of that in year two.

Julian Hearn launched Huel in 2015. He entered the US in June 2017. In year one of US trading, they did $10m. By FY2024, US revenue was £67.2m — 31% of total group revenue of £214m.

The business was acquired by Danone in March 2026 for approximately €1bn.

The US was built entirely DTC before any meaningful retail presence. No US warehouse. No US office. No US retail partner. Just a product that shipped well, an offer architecture that made the economics work at international scale, and a subscription model that meant customers who tried it kept buying.

The structural reason Huel could do this is the same reason all six brands in this list did it: high AOV relative to shipping cost. A £45 monthly powder order absorbs international delivery costs in a way that a £12 protein bar cannot. The unit economics permitted international DTC from day one.

Wild — International Within Six Months

Wild was founded in 2020 by Freddy Ward and Charlie Gower, both of whom had backgrounds in growth marketing — Ward from HelloFresh, where he had seen first-hand how multi-market expansion created resilience.

The HelloFresh experience directly shaped Wild's approach. HelloFresh launched in Germany, the UK and the Netherlands simultaneously on day one and was in eight markets by end of year one. Ward saw what geographic diversification did when individual markets had hard quarters — the portfolio blended out and growth continued.

Wild applied that logic with minimal friction. They ran a UK Shopify store, localised the currency and copy, and put Facebook ads into international markets within six months of launch. They validated the CAC before scaling the infrastructure, not the other way around.

Wild raised approximately £78m in total and was acquired by Unilever for approximately £230m. The brand had reached close to £100m run rate at exit.

Ward's framing of the international timing question is the clearest articulation of the whole pattern: "If you've got a good product, it is much easier to sell that product in lots of countries than to sell more products in your own country."

That line deserves to sit above every British founder's desk.

Suri — Day One

Suri was founded in May 2022 by Mark Rushmore and Geve Haryanto. It is a sustainable electric toothbrush brand — refillable heads, 40-day battery, USB-C charging, aluminium case.

On launch day, Suri ran paid ads simultaneously in the US, UK, and Germany.

Not year two. Not six months. Day one.

The reason: Rushmore had done enough pre-launch testing to know the category economics worked internationally. Electric toothbrushes are a universal daily habit. The market education cost is zero — everyone already uses one. The competitive set is two brands (Oral-B and Philips) with 80% market share between them — meaning a huge addressable audience already in the category, already spending, just waiting for a better option.

The US CAC turned out to be lower than the UK.

Within three years, Suri went from zero to £24m in annual revenue. The US became a meaningful part of that, aided by inbound interest from Goop, placement in Erewhon in LA, and an organic Kardashian post after the family spotted the product in their local Calabasas store.

The Nue Co — The Reverse Playbook

Jules Miller is British. She studied at the University of Birmingham. She built her brand with the help of her grandfather, a Cambridge chemist.

She launched The Nue Co in New York in 2017.

Not London first. New York first. The US was not her expansion market — it was her launch market.

This is the most aggressive version of the pattern: not "go to the US early" but "start in the US if the US is where your customer is." Miller identified that the US wellness consumer was more sophisticated, more willing to pay premium prices for supplements, and more culturally ready for the category she was building than the UK market was in 2017.

The result: 80% of The Nue Co's sales are via DTC, driven primarily by subscriptions, with a 70% repeat purchase rate. The brand has raised $35.9m across four rounds.

The Three Mechanics That Made It Possible

These six brands are different categories, different founders, different routes to market. But three structural factors connect all of them.

1. High AOV relative to shipping cost

Every brand in this list has an order value that absorbs international delivery cost without destroying the economics. Gymshark apparel at £60-120 per order. Huel powder at £45 per bag. Wild deodorant refills on subscription. Suri brush heads on a 6-month cadence. Charlotte Tilbury luxury beauty at £30-80 per SKU. The Nue Co supplements at $25-95.

None of these are £8 impulse purchases. The margin exists to pay for the logistics of going global.

2. No retail dependency

All six brands were either DTC-first or DTC-dominant at the time they entered the US. They did not need to convince an American retailer to take a chance on an unknown British brand. They sold direct, collected the data, proved the demand, and used retail as a second act when they had leverage.

This is the reversal of the traditional international expansion model. Old playbook: get a distribution partner, get into stores, build awareness through retail. New playbook: sell direct, own the customer, use the data to negotiate retail from strength.

3. Digital-native product

None of these products require a physical retail experience to be understood, tried, or purchased. You do not need to smell a Wild deodorant before you buy it. You do not need to hold a Suri toothbrush. You do not need to taste Huel. The product communicates through content, through reviews, through community — and all of those channels are borderless.

The US was never a separate strategy for any of these brands. It was just another postcode.

The Rule of One™ Lens: What This Means for Your Brand

The brands that went to the US early share one underlying belief: that building a subscription-first DTC infrastructure at home creates an asset that is geographically portable from day one.

When your unit economics are built around recurring revenue, high AOV, and a product that ships predictably, there is no structural reason to confine that model to one country. The cost to serve a subscriber in New York is not meaningfully different from the cost to serve a subscriber in Nottingham — if your logistics are right.

The founders who waited — who spent three or four years building the UK market before considering the US — often found that by the time they looked up, US competition had intensified, CPMs had risen, and the window of low-cost entry had closed.

The ones who moved early built US audiences before the US audience was expensive.

Three Things to Take Into Your Business This Week

1. Run a £50 test into the US this week. If you have a Shopify store and a Meta ads account, there is nothing stopping you from running a £50 test campaign into a US ZIP code today. You do not need a US entity, a US warehouse, or a US team. You need a product page, a payment processor that handles USD, and a shipping rate. The data from that £50 test is worth more than six months of planning.

2. Check your AOV against your international shipping cost. The minimum viable ratio is roughly 8:1 — your AOV should be at least 8x your international shipping cost to make the DTC economics work. If you are selling a £15 product with a £12 shipping cost, the US is not your next move. If you are selling a £55 subscription order with a £7 shipping cost, it is.

3. Frame the US as validation, not expansion. The mental model shift that unlocks early international growth is this: the US is not a second market you build after you have succeeded at home. It is a proof point that your product travels. If your Shopify data shows US customers converting at a comparable rate to UK customers, you have just proved that your brand is not a local phenomenon — it is a global one. That changes your fundraising story, your retail conversations, and your valuation. Run the test.

Kunle Campbell publishes a brand breakdown every week. Each one dissects a CPG or DTC brand through the lens of subscription economics, offer architecture, and retention systems.

If this breakdown gave you something actionable, forward it to one founder who needs it.

And if you want to apply the same thinking to your own brand, the Rule of One™ Growth OS is now open for applications.

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